Central Limit
18 - 18
Our journey through the Central Limit begins in Retortillo, a village that keeps some of its walls, one of its arches, noble houses and a large temple. Located at the foot of the Sierra de Pela, in the Camino del Cid, has been since ancient cultural crossroads, towards Atienza by the mountains. You can also eat well there!
Soria has celebrated cannons, there is one very little known in the South, the cannon of the Talegones river, from Retortillo to Cabreriza. From the beginning, the course is surrounded by rock walls and you can see the remains of old mills. A path follows the course, sometimes collected, other, wide between beautiful corners.
Soria spring comes a bit late, but when it does, land bursts with colors. Thousands of flowers blooming then, but only in a few places in Spain I have seen wild prairie lilies and here abound. Thorns, riverside trees, ilexes and oaks populate the canyon, and many aromatic herbs that give a characteristic odor to the South.
Never miss the rock walls. The river does not always bring plenty of water, since it is very subject to the autumn and springs rains, and winter with snow. I've been overwhelmed the riverbed in several times, but it seeps between rocks and disappears over the course, leaving quiet and beautiful places.
There are also roads on top, on the edge of the walls. In fact, above the canyon is the best representation of pastoral architecture of Spain, although the loneliness has forced, unfortunately, the abandonment of many constructions. Any case, there are still herds in the South and some of the sheep pens are well maintained.
Close to Torrevicente, the river opens into a lovely meadow. It is the diversity that is so prevalent in the South. And there isn't always cold, is almost a myth now. Obviously, winter is hard, but spring and autumn are a pleasure to explore the mountains and canyon. Summer, hot in the middle of the day, is perfect in the evenings.
We haven't spent time speaking about other residents, beyond human beings. Airspace owners are vultures, eagles, egyptian vulture, kestrel, owls, besides partridges, quails and thousand small birds. But there also bustards, little bustards and larks ... Meanwhile, the mountains have countless deer, wild boar and hares.
Torrevicente is halfway between Retortillo and Lumías. The village fits the concave shape of the mountain and takes the riverbank. Meadows and orchards spread along the course, reminding the visitor how complicated life must have been in the area, as fertile land is scarce. This is easy to understand that people from Soria are strong and tough.
Following the canyon you can get Lumias, one of the most attractive villages in the province, I think, because of its location close to the rocks, the river itself, which divides in two the place, their dovecotes and beehives, almost embedded in the hollows , the walls of their "taínas" , made with "elegant stones" and a thousand other things.
Some time ago, our Talegones crossed Lumias and immediately the water was exploited by some mills. Several of them were working in the '60s, even a light factory with a forced waterfall. But everything changes and there is little. But there is always other hand and, in that case, we refer to the beautiful places that remains because of these buildings.
And if you think that the area is not always beautiful, you're wrong. No matter if it is snowing, or if the autumn dresses leaves with colors, or the spring comes... I remember when a friend told me that the pleasure I felt with a book in my hands was the same as he noticed every morning watching the nature. It was like a book and changed every day.
The Talegones goes out of Lumias, touches Arenillas and, without reaching the village, turns to the north, towards the Duero river. But the inhabitants of Arenillas had their gardens by the course and those apples picked in November and lasted until February came from them, or from the Parado river, a samll course but full of beauty too.
Arenillas village is small, but is well-preserved. Its church, of Romanesque origin, suffered a major reform during the Renaissance, but does not hide its origins. An association has preserved traditions and recover some initiatives (in Curiosities quote). By the way, it has a bar to rest from the walk and to satisfy the thirst.
Arenillas has an ancient settlement, which betray their names, the remains that archaeologists have been classified and the Roman fountain, restored a few years ago. It stays close to the village, near the ancient washer and by the path of the Calzadas, a good name to remember that in Roman times, the area was already populated.
If we went towards east, we will get La Riba de Escalote and Rello, another attractive place, since it is a village that was anchored behind a medieval wall and it continues so. The Escalote river, which rises between Soria and Guadalajara, near Barcones, surrounds Rello and accompanies the road to Berlanga de Duero.
Our way goes towards Berlanga, but we must talk about Brías and Abanco. Two bishops were born there, of Leon and Astorga respectively. They ordered to build two temples and two palaces in both villages between the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Brías Palace, in the image, was a delightful rural hotel until recently.
Abanco, in the image, and Brías seem to be in the middle of nowhere and, also, with their palaces and churches prominently standing out. The settlements of both villages are old, just look at the Roman fountain and Romanesque chapel of Brías and the cave paintings in the way from Abanco to Sauquillo.
Berlanga de Duero is the center of the area. Declared a Historical-Artistic place, it retains a beautiful Castilian square, arcaded, an impressive collegiate, a Gothic-Renaissance castle, some manor houses emblazoned and the remains of a palace, today an interpretive center. By the way, eating becomes a pleasure in Berlanga.
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Images: Vito López y Esther de Aragón